Karl Mayer: New patterning dimensions through...
Karl Mayer

New patterning dimensions through digitalization

(Source: Karl Mayer)
(Source: Karl Mayer)

With the HKS 3-M ON, Karl Mayer has initiated the changeover of high-performance tricot machines to the digital generation. The new machine works with lapping data that can be purchased online at Karl Mayer's Webshop Spare Parts and loaded immediately thanks to the machine's networking. This means that articles can be changed in a matter of seconds without mechanical intervention.
The new HKS does not need any pattern discs, yet achieves the high working speeds typical of mechanical guide bar drives.
In the first patterning projects, textile product developers at Karl Mayer Group, Obertshausen/Germany, produced conventional basic articles, such as marquisette and flag fabric. They used the standard repeat length of up to 36 stitch courses – an increase of 12 stitch courses compared with the HKS 3-M model with pattern disc drive. All patterns could be produced with maximum efficiency and quality and changed quickly without any technical effort. There was no need for any manual intervention. Simply load the required lappings for an article using SwapKnit 36 or SwapKnit 36 Flat from the KM.ON cloud and production could start, with optimized machine data for maximum operating speeds.
Subsequent trials produced patterns with repeats of more than 36 stitch courses. The web-based software k.innovation Core from KM.ON was used for this. With regard to the design, the specialists opted for variants with sophisticated crinkle looks. In GB 1 and GB 2, a wrapping yarn made of polyamide (PA) with elastane in the core was processed. When relaxed, the 2-component material gives rise to distinct plastic surface structures. GB 3 produced the fabric ground and alternated between PA and polyester (PET) feed. When PET was used, targeted cross-dyeing resulted in sophisticated 2-tone coloration of the 3-dimensional goods. The relief effects are strongly pronounced due to the use of 2 ground guide bars.
In clothing, the fabrics offer freedom of movement and a good fit due to their high elasticity. The 3-dimensional structure also creates distances to the skin, which ensures a high climatic wearing comfort.

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