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melliand International 6/2022 253 LEADER "What's really in it?" Journalists from the weekly newspaper "Die Zeit" asked themselves this question when they saw the jersey of the German national soccer team and published their answers in the dossier of the November 24, 2022, issue. Unfortunately, it was not about the obvious question of what sporting talent is in the shirt, no, it was about which fibers were used for the jersey, from which raw materials in turn these fibers were produced and how these raw materials were obtained. It also looked at what else the use and care phase might bring to light. Despite the manufacturer's intense efforts towards sustainability through the use of recycled polyester from non-textile post-consumer waste, the only thing that remains in this dossier is a shameful reverberation: unclear supply chains, non-transparent waste material flows, no certainty of compliance with the demands of the International Labor Organization in terms of working conditions or child labor, overproduction and, finally, fibrous microplastics. The EU strategy for sustainable textiles, published in March of this year, is intended to put a stop to precisely these shortcomings through new design guidelines with numerous criteria and extended producer responsibility (EPR). Precise specifications for the use of recycled fibers in textiles or also with regard to recycling-friendly design are to be expected. The discussion also includes possible regulations on cost sharing by manufacturers and distributors of textile products in the collection, sorting and recycling of textiles. However, implementing the (as yet undefined) criteria of the design guidelines will not be easy, as a large proportion of the textile products consumed in the EU are produced outside the EU, and only 20% of the resources required for this are used within the EU. The design guidelines must therefore be approached globally. On closer inspection, not much is new about these guidelines. Durability, repairability, sustainable raw materials, resource efficiency and emission reduction, best available technology or fair working conditions are not inventions of the Green Deal or of the year 2022. For a long time, our industry has simply shifted its challenges and difficulties geographically for price reasons, but has not mastered them. While in the field of technical textiles, price pressure was successfully countered by innovative strength, the apparel industry gradually relinquished responsibility and thus often also the deep understanding of the supply chain from fiber to product, including all auxiliary processes and logistics. With the onset of economic reforms in China in the late 1970s and the associated surge in globalization, there were also ample opportunities to avoid innovation. This evasion is now catching up with everyone. Our industry, which ranks 4th in the EU in terms of consumption of primary raw materials after the food, housing and transport sectors, and 5th in terms of greenhouse gas emissions according to the European Environment Agency, should finally address its problems. The Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf International Textile Conference held at the beginning of December 2022 under the motto "Textile impulses for the future" provided numerous suggestions for solutions: mechanical or chemical fiber recycling, robotics, artificial intelligence, bio-based functionalization or sustainable fibers were explained. A key word of the conference was technology transfer. At the conference, German and numerous European universities demonstrated extensive knowledge and a pronounced willingness to participate in solving the tasks of the textile and apparel industry with many young, well-educated and highly motivated experts. This potential should implicitly and actively be used. The Textile Factory 7.0 project discussed in Aachen is also a powerful example of technology transfer, which was initiated by the Verband der Rheinischen Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie (VBU) e.V. (Association of the Rhenish Textile and Clothing Industry) and the Verband der Nordwestdeutschen Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie e.V. (Association of the Northwest German Textile and Clothing Industry), Münster, in close cooperation with the Institute for Textile Technology at RWTH Aachen University (ITA), Aachen, the Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences, Mönchengladbach, and the city of Mönchengladbach, in order to step by step move closer to a sustainable and economically successful textile and clothing industry through de-fossilization of production, zero emissions, automation, biotechnology for new raw materials and, not least, on-demand manufacturing and near sourcing. Sustainability that resonates positively – with united forces it will succeed! What’s really in it? Sustainability or reverberation? Prof. Maike Rabe Director Research Institute of Textile and Clothing University of Applied Sciences Niederrhein Mönchengladbach/ Germany
CONTENTS 254 melliand International 6/2022 6 melliand International Worldwide Textile Journal December 2022 Volume 28 261-264, 266, 268 Industry and company news (Andritz, Autoneum, Polartec/Milliken, Smartex, Unifi, Worn Again) 263 Partnerships to fast-track industry management improvement (Higg) 264 New standard for the implementation of due diligence (Oeko-Tex) Fibers/Yarns 269 Traceability for Andalusian cotton — from seed to garment T. Herzog 270 Convolutions in cotton fibers G. Nagarajan 272 Properties of polyester/bamboo blended yarns and fabrics R.N. Narkhedkar, S.S. Lavate 274 Texturing machine for flexible production with high quality (SSM) Leader 209 What's really in it? Sustainability or reverberation? M. Rabe Industry News 256, 257, 260, 262 Fiber news (AMSilk, Arkema, Avient, IFG, Teijin Frontier) 256, 258, 266-268 Company finances (Lectra, Lenzing, Oerlikon, Rieter, Toray, VDMA TFL, VF Corp.) 257, 258, 262, 268 Current acquisitions & partnerships (Bozzetto/Levaco; Ascend/Circular Polymers, Hohenstein Institute/Sizekick, Hologenix/Wellman, Renewcell/Eastman) 260 India as a textile sourcing destination — India ITME 261 80 years of the Martindale textile tester (James Heal) 262 Business situation and expectation grow negative (ITMF)
melliand International 6/2022 255 CONTENTS 280-283 India ITME 2022: Review 284 Waste fibers enable the recovery of metalliferous, dusty production residues M. Pelzer, S. Preiss et al. 286 Digitally enabled maintenance management A. Rueda 288 The stuff that artificial brains are made of (Bielefeld UAS) 289 Mint for botanical odor control (HeiQ) Statement 290 5 theses on textile recycling that call for correction S. Schlichter 257, 263, 264, 266, 267 Management 285 New books 225 Calendar (in German part) 289 Company index 289 Imprint Spinning 275 100% color monitoring for maximum performance (Loepfe) Knitting 277 Is warp knitting more environmentally friendly than weaving? (Karl Mayer) Textile Finishing 278 More sustainable laminating solutions based on bio-based hot melt adhesives M. Unkauf Textile Industry 279 Post-consumer plastics — from yoghurt cups to high-quality textiles S. Lukoschek, C. Callhoff et al.
INDUSTRY NEWS 256 melliand International 6/2022 additional capacity for Lenzing Ecovero branded fibers. This site will become a pure specialty viscose supplier in 2023. Outlook The war in Ukraine, China’s zero-Covid policy and the sharp rise in inflation have had a significant impact on the global economy. In July, the International Monetary Fund downgraded its growth expectations for 2022 to 3.2%. This deterioration in the market environment is also increasingly affecting the consumer climate as well as sentiment in industries relevant for Lenzing. For this reason, business prospects worsened in Q3/2022. Given this deterioration in the market environment, Lenzing suspended its earnings guidance for the 2022 financial year on September 19, 2022. The company anticipates earnings in the 2022 financial year in line with current market expectations. Lenzing was increasingly affected by the extreme developments in global energy and raw material markets in the first 3 quarters of 2022, in line with the impact on the whole of manufacturing industry. The market environment deteriorated sharply, especially during the course of the 3rd quarter (Q3), and the worsening consumer climate placed additional pressure on the business performance of Lenzing AG, Lenzing/Austria. Sales grew by 24% year-on-year to reach € 1.97 billon in the reporting period, primarily due to higher fiber prices. In addition to lower demand, the earnings trend particularly reflects the sharp rise in energy and raw material costs. Therefore, EBITDA decreased by 11.6% year-on-year to € 263 million. Both the earnings trend and the significant deterioration in the market environment led the Managing Board to launch a reorganization and cost reduction program. The program is already being implemented and is expected to save at least € 70 million in costs annualized once fully implemented. The successful commissioning of the 2 key projects in Thailand and Brazil as well as the implementation of projects at the existing sites in China and Indonesia formed the focus of Lenzing’s investment activities in the first 3 quarters of 2022. Lenzing is currently investing more than € 200 million in China and Indonesia in order to convert existing standard viscose capacities into capacities for environmentally responsible specialty fibers. In Nanjing/China, Lenzing is working on converting a line to modal fiber production. The Chinese location’s product portfolio will thereby consist entirely of specialty fibers by the end of 2022. In Purwakarta/Indonesia, Lenzing is creating Lenzing Earnings reflect sharp rise in energy and raw material costs A cutting-edge automated facility for the highly efficient production of polyester filaments has been launched Teijin Polyester (Thailand) Ltd. (TPL), Pathumthani/ Thailand, the core base for polyester (PET) fiber manufacturing of Teijin Frontier. Operation began in October 2022. The new facility is equipped with multispindle spinning machines for PET multifilament yarn and machines capable of adding functional agents. Teijin Frontier invested approx. ¥1 billion to construct the facility, which is expected to produce 1,500 tons of PET filaments annually by the fiscal year ending in March 2024. The facility will enhance the added value of TPL including through extra-efficient spinning and an automated process for the uniform drying of multifilament. TPL will effectively use the new facility to produce Teijin Frontier’s proprietary PET filaments for apparel and interior applications, such as the Octa highly modified hollow-core fiber and a water-absorbing quick-drying yarn. Teijin Frontier Co., Ltd., Osaka/Japan, the fibers and products converting company of Teijin Group, Tokyo/Japan, expects to expand the range and improve the functionality of its EcoPET recycled PET fibers by integrating the new facility with a separate facility that started operating at TPL in January 2022 to convert used plastic bottle flakes sourced in the Thai market into recycled PET chips. The new facility accommodates various special polymers and recycled raw materials and additionally can add functional agents to raw yarn for the production of new types of functional polyester filaments. Teijin Frontier Thai subsidiary launches facility for producing functional PET filaments Water-absorbing quick-drying yarn (cross-sectional transmission electron microscope) IFG Fibres Research Centre opens In September 2022, the fibers manufacturer International Fibres Group (IFG), Huddersfield/UK, officially opened a new research center based at their IFG Asota site in Linz/Austria. The Fibres Research Centre will house the SF1000 Pilot Line, IFG’s state-of-the-art, semi-industrial melt spinning line. The pilot line provides the ability to constantly test and evaluate new and emerging polymer types, which can be developed and engineered specifically to meet the bespoke environmental and performance challenges of IFG’s customers, with the aim to find new and sustainable alternatives to traditionally fossilbased products. The new center will allow the R&D team from IFG to host customers and demonstrate the pilot line in action. Approaches for collaborative research projects are welcomed, especially for those who have sustainable alternatives to fossil-based polymers and additives to test and develop. A new lab testing offering will now provide testing for raw materials, denier testing, measurement of spin oil content, thermal shrinkage and UV testing, FTIR, DSC, and much more.
melliand International 6/2022 257 INDUSTRY NEWS On October 16, 2022, Prof. Dr. Ulrich Liebscher passed away at the age of 93. He has been a member of the editorial board of our sister journal TECHNICAL TEXTILES / TECHNISCHE TEXTILIEN for many years. In 1957 he was entrusted with the foundation and management of the central research and development center of the bast fiber industry in Dresden, the later Scientific Technical Centre for Technical Textiles and Institute for Technical Textiles, and took over the technical management of the construction of a plant in Fehrbellin/Germany. In 1960 he was appointed lecturer and in 1964 professor. In 1965 Prof. Liebscher was entrusted with the management of the Institute for Textile Machine Design and Technology of Fibrous Materials at the Technische Hochschule (Polytechnic) of Chemnitz. In 1983 he received an honorary doctorate for work in the field of electrostatic flokking. After 1990, Prof. Liebscher was committed to the personnel development at the Technical University of Chemnitz. In parallel, he founded the journal TECHNISCHE TEXTILIEN in 1958, which was initially distributed as “Mitteilungen für die Bastfaserindustrie” (Information for the bast fibers industry). Since the journal was founded, he has been active as an editor for more than 30 years. Since 1991 the journal has been published by Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt/Germany. The global supplier of chemical specialities and auxiliaries, Zschimmer & Schwarz Chemie GmbH, Lahnstein/Germany, is strengthening its management team. On November 1, 2022, Dr. Felix Grimm assumed the position of Chief Operating Officer (COO) at Zschimmer & Schwarz. In this role, he is responsible for the areas of production, supply chain, purchasing and EHS (Environment, Health &Safety) of the Zschimmer & Schwarz Group on a global level. For many years, he held various management positions in the areas of production and technology at Clariant AG in Germany, France and Switzerland. Grimm succeeds Wolfgang Nowak, who will leave the company at the end of the year. Expanding its biotech laboratory, pilot plants and office space, AMSilk GmbH, Munich/Germany, is embarking on the next stage of its journey to provide biofabricated silk materials across the world. A leader in supplying innovative high-performance bio-based silk materials, the company is relocating to a new biotech lab and office space covering more than 2000 m2 on the recently constructed Campus Neuried in Munich/Germany, to support its expansion into production networks outside of Europe. The new company offices at Campus Neuried, which began development in August 2019, have been purpose built to suit the individual needs and requirements of AMSilk. The new office space is triple the size of its previous residence, supporting the company’s next phase of development as it aims to scale-up production, reaching several thousand tons per year within the next 3-5 years. Its innovative and scalable biotechnological platform can provide large quantities of premium bio-fabricated silk materials of a constant quality. As demand for decarbonization across industries increases, bio-fabrication has been widely established as the solution to sustainable materials for the future. AMSilk’s fibers are vegan, completely biodegradable, produced only with renewable plant-based raw materials and microplastic-free. AMSilk Relocation to support expansion plans In a deal that provides the company with a consistent supply of high-quality PCR materials, Ascend Performance Materials LLC, Houston, TX/USA, has purchased a majority stake in Circular Polymers, a recycler of post-consumer, high-performance polymers including polyamide 6 and 66 (PA 6, PA 66), polypropylene (PP) and polyester (PET). David Bender, founder and CEO of Circular Polymers, will hold the remaining equity and stay on as CEO of the company. Circular Polymers, Lincoln, CA/USA, which as part of the deal is renamed Circular Polymers by Ascend, reclaims and processes post-consumer carpet using a unique technology and has redirected approx. 85 million pounds (approx. 38.6 million kg) of waste from landfills into new goods since 2018. Ascend, a fully integrated producer of durablematerials, has a sustainability strategy based on 3 pillars: empowering people, innovating solutions and operating without compromise. Circular Polymers by Ascend providesmaterials that offer strong performance with a considerably smaller environmental footprint, compared to other technologies like pyrolysis. The deal means a consistent supply of its ReDefyne sustainable polyamides. Ascend has committed to reducing its greenhouse gas emissions by 80% by 2030 and recently announced2 newefforts to reduce the carbon footprint of its products. Ascend Majority stake in recycler Circular Polymers Bozzetto 100% acquisition of fiber division of Levaco Specialty chemicals company Bozzetto Group has acquired 100% of the fiber division from Levaco Chemicals GmbH, Leverkusen/Germany a privately owned company part of Diersch & Schröder GmbH & Co. KG, Bremen/Germany. The acquisition, effective from November 3, 2022, is in line with the long-term strategy of Giovanni Bozzetto SpA, Filago/Italy, which has strengthened its man-made fibers leadership position over the past years. The Italian HQ of Bozzetto is equipped with cutting-edge technologies and pilot plants, developing sustainable solutions for synthetic fibers and viscose/lyocell on a daily basis. Thanks to the newly acquired expertise, the know-how and an R&D-oriented approach will be continued.
INDUSTRY NEWS 258 melliand International 6/2022 During the first 6 months of the financial year from April 1 – September 30, 2022 (H1/2022), the global economy saw a slowdown in growth due to high material prices associated with the Ukraine situation, China’s lockdown in line with zeroCovid policy, and the impact of rising inflation on consumer spending particularly in Europe and the USA. The Japanese economy continued to recover from the corona pandemic, although rising materials cost combined with the sudden weakening of the yen exerted downward pressure on the recovery. As a result, consolidated sales for Toray for H1/2022 increased by 18.7% compared with the same period the previous year to ¥1,261.8 billion (approx. € 8.7 billion), while core operating income declined 22.5% to ¥54.4 billion. Sales of the Fibers & Textiles segment of Toray Industries, Inc., Tokyo/Japan, increased 26.8% to ¥509 billion compared with the same period a year earlier while core operating income declined 1.8% to ¥23.9 billion. While apparel applications saw a recovery from the pandemic, hygiene material applications were sluggish, as the supply-demand balance worsened. Industrial applications were affected by the delay in recovery of the automobile production volume. Almost all applications and regions were affected by the soaring costs of raw materials and fuels as well as transportation. The Carbon Fiber Composite Materials segment increased sales by 41.5% to ¥140 billion compared with the same period a year earlier. The segment posted core operating income of ¥5.6 billion, an improvement of ¥9.2 billion from the same period a year earlier. While the segment was affected by the increase in raw material and fuel prices and the decline in the production rate of commercial aircraft in the aerospace applications, the sales of wind turbine blades and pressure vessels in the industrial applications expanded. There was also growth in sports applications. In addition, the segment went forward with passing on the rise in raw material and fuel prices to the sales price. Toray Sales increase 18.7% as Japanese economy recovers Now counting over US$ 1 billion in retail sales, over 60 brand partnerships, over 30 different product categories and offices on 4 continents, Hologenix, LLC, Pacific Palisades, CA/USA, began with an idea 20 years ago. Co-founder and CEO Seth Casden had a genuine desire to improve the quality of people's lives and health with an emphasis on non-invasive, natural, holistic healing. He became fascinated with the effect infrared (IR) has on the body and worked with a dedicated team to develop and market Celliant infrared technology and thus materials science innovator Hologenix was born. Celliant, a proprietary blend of IR-generating bio-ceramics that are ethically sourced, captures and converts body heat into infrared energy for increased local circulation and cellular oxygenation, resulting in stronger performance, faster recovery and better sleep. It is a key ingredient in textiles, spanning both performance and fashion apparel, sleep and lounge wear, bedding, upholstery, uniforms, and medical supplies. In 20 years, Hologenix has achieved many scientific milestones, and Celliant has been and continues to be rigorously tested by experts in photobiology, nanotechnology, sleep medicine, and diabetes and wound care. Since its founding in 2002, the company has conducted more than 1,000 tissue oxygen tests in its IRB-certified laboratory in California, and currently holds patents filed in 16 countries. In 2017, the FDA determined that Celliant products are medical devices as defined in section 201(h) of the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act and are general wellness products. Partnerships for innovation and growth The first partnership Hologenix secured was with the fiber company Wellman International Ltd., Dublin/Ireland, a pioneer in recycling technologies and member of the Indorama Group. Their joint project of pure white Celliant rPET fiber was shortlisted for a Drapers Sustainable Fashion Award earlier in 2022. Many of the first brands to incorporate Celliant were in the sportswear industry, including adidas, Reebok, Saucony, EasternMountain Sports and others, and growth since the beginning has been exponential. In October of 2022 alone, 3 new partnerships were launched. A new partnership has been formed with Medline Industries, LP, Northfield, IL/USA, a leading medical product distributor and manufacturer, on a new line of Curad brand orthopedic products powered by Celliant technology. A further partnership with a major sportswear retailer is just around the corner. Looking ahead, Hologenix is continuing to research applications for Celliant in the agriculture industry and wound healing and diabetes. Expansion into the FemTech market (diagnostic tools, products, services, wearables and software that use technology to address women's health issues) with both product applications and scientific research about the benefits of infrared for women’s health issues is also on the horizon. Hologenix 20th anniversary and partnership with Wellman