Melliand International 3/2022

Worldwide Textile Journal melliand International June 2022 D 5862 E 3 ON W LINE E ARE Our digital content home!

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melliand International 3/2022 93 LEADER An increasing level of automation and remote services characterizes the textile industry. Serving these markets, VDMA member companies see themselves not only as machine suppliers but also as competent partners on the technological aspects of digitalization and the processes of their customers. An intensive relationship between spinners, weavers, knitters or finishers, machine suppliers, chemistry suppliers and other technology providers is the key to future success. Assistance through remote services/teleservice and predictive maintenance software to avoid machine stops are also now provided by numerous VDMA textile technology suppliers. Digitalization and Industry 4.0 also help to counter the increasing shortage of skilled workers, and the machines of many VDMA companies offer many useful features to assure reproducible quality results. They include process simulation on a PC to optimize the process parameters before production even starts. In general, there are 2 elements to saving resources and energy – modern plant technology and process optimization. Modern machine concepts with intelligent control systems are significantly reducing the energy consumption, the consumption of water, chemicals and also the waste of expensive raw materials. The use of digitally advanced machines leads to a massive reduction in environmental footprint compared to older models. In spinning, lack of efficiency, downtimes in mill production and fluctuations in quality are some of the major worries in modern mill management. To face these challenges, a digital all-in-one solution of a member company offers a transparent view of the entire spinning mill at one glance. The platform enables the users to discover optimization potential and to plan resources sensibly. Quality diagrams provide information on relevant progress parameters, such as thick spots, CV values and draft variations as well as energy consumption. The users can quickly identify negative deviations and outliers – thus, are able to prevent the production of non-usable material by intervening the process if required. This results in less production waste and a lower energy consumption. In fabric production, artificial intelligence (AI) is going to play a major role in future. A VDMA member company is working on a solution that aims to intelligently detect fabric faults by automatically monitoring quality during the production of knitted fabrics and stopping the machine in a matter of seconds. The monitoring system is more accurate through the use of AI and detects faults very fast. The extremely short response times save waste and require fewer resources. In the flat knitting sector, a software, in combination with external software for 3D prototyping, allows the design process to be digitalized and the number of prototypes to be reduced. In a case study by the company, a halving was achieved under defined conditions. The ecological benefits are around 65% less material consumption and thus correspondingly less use of resources and energy. Sophisticated recipe administration systems and process monitoring with special sensors for temperature, humidity etc. are addressing the needs in textile finishing. For example, the development of dyeing machines in terms of design and control technology has led to an enormous reduction in water consumption over the past few decades. Digital measurements and analysis of dyeing processes are crucial to process optimization and several which optimize recipes and dye curves are available. Visual representations of the process curves, for example, enable both a control of the turbidity and a determination of the dye extract from the liquor. The need for automation is growing from year to year and the benefits include both stable and increased productivity rates through the reduction of unproductive waiting times and an increase in occupational safety. Automated storage, weighing and dispensing systems also provide many advantages as workers no longer (or less frequently) come into contact with chemicals and dyes and there is less danger of accidents in the plant. Digital storage systems meanwhile manage stock levels and generate orders precisely when they are required. Technology suppliers affiliated to the VDMA will be showing their developments in automation and digitalization at the ITMA 2023 from June 8-14, 2023 in Milan/ Italy. Technology partners for digitalization and automation Thomas Waldmann VDMA Textile Machinery Managing Director Frankfurt/Germany

CONTENTS 94 melliand International 3/2022 3 melliand International Worldwide Textile Journal June 2022 Volume 28 Fibers/Yarns 108 Novel spider silk fibers for nerve healing (University of Bayreuth) 109 Current obstacles of cotton processing J. Kühn, T. Gries 109 Simplifying health and wellness (Nufabrx) 110 PEF — from polymer to product T. Höhnemann et al. 112 Smart bandages with integrated medication A. Six Spinning 114 Winding machine Autoconer X6 completes portfolio (Rieter) 116 Twisting machine with innovative technology opens up new markets K.-H. Sandholzer Weaving 117 Reliable monitoring of thread tension (Protechna) Leader 93 Technology partners for digitalization and automation T. Waldmann Industry News 96 Less global cotton consumption in 2022/23 96 Partnership initiative bio cotton in India 98 $85 million to scale naturally circular materials (Natural Fiber Welding) 98, 100 Company finances 106 (IVL, Lectra, Radici) 96, 102 Current acquisitions, cooperation (Avient/DSM Dyneema, Navis TubeTex/Gaston Systems; Renewcell/Birla/Daiwabo) 99, 108 Fiber news (Kraig Biocraft, Lenzing) 99, 102 Conference & Exhibition news (Dornbirn GFC, ITMA 2023) 101 China: recycling of 25% of all textile waste by 2025 102 European nonwovens production up in 2021 103 13th Corona Survey shows positive business situation (ITMF) 104, Industry news 105 (ACIMIT, Groz-Beckert, Trützschler) 104 Karl Mayer: 85th anniversary

melliand International 3/2022 95 CONTENTS 138 The Supply Chain Act: an opportunity, not an obstacle T. Müßle 140 EU strategy for sustainable and circular textiles 141 Product to product recycling through the example of a climbing rope L. Debicki, M. Strozyk, A. Hoffmann 144 Innovative bifurcated coronary stents for the treatment of coronary bifurcation lesions R.T. Kocaman et al. 147 Research at ITM — our contribution to climate protection 149 DITF: biopolymers from wood and chitin for sustainable textile solutions 151 Texprocess fair preview Interview 156 Wireless in industry M. Bohge (R3 Solutions) 100, 102, 104, 106 Management 117 New books 129 Calender (in melliand Textilberichte) 155 Company Index / Imprint 118 Beam warping machine for high-quality warp beams (Karl Mayer) 119 Digital disc-type yarn tensioner (Karl Mayer) Knitting 120 The long road to technical knitwear S. Kehry Textile Finishing 122 Cerium oxide nanozymes as biocide-free antifouling finish for outdoor fabrics T. Mayer-Gall, F. Pfitzner, A. Gazanis, G. Delaittre et al. 123 Versatile tool for high-functional coatings on textiles G. Arnoult, J. Jolibois, C. Gottlieb et al. 126 Multi-layer coating for conductive textiles with drying via NIR-technology E. Lempa, D. Bär 128 Calendering of sheet material — how a fabric gets its coating M. Lückmann Textile Industry 130 ITM fair preview

INDUSTRY NEWS 96 melliand International 3/2022 P.O. Box 13 12 64 · 42039 Wuppertal, Germany Tel.: +49/202/8 90 91 91 · Fax: +49/202/8 90 91 11 · RollerCoverings a great variety of surfaces in Rubber, PVC and other Materials Not present at any exhibitions – but 24/7 service for you 10 companies and organizations have joined forces in the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles (PST), Berlin/Germany, with the aim of building a fair, environmentally friendly, and economically viable organic cotton supply chain. 12,500 cotton producers in the Indian states of Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan, Odisha and Gujarat are expected to benefit from the project by converting to organic farming. To this end and within the framework of the "OCA Farm Programme“ farmers will have access to reliable non-GM (genetically modified) seeds, receive training on organic practices and decent working conditions. Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA), Amsterdam/Netherlands, working through local farm groups or implementing partners, will support the Partnership Initiative’s brand partners connecting to farm projects in various Indian regions. These companies and organizations participate in the Partnership Initiative Organic Cotton in India: Brands Fashion, C&A, Esprit, Formesse, GOTS, HAKRO, H&M Group, s.Oliver Group, Tchibo and Fairtrade. The Partnership for Sustainable Textiles and its strategic partner Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) are coordinating the project, which will run until August 2025. The Partnership Initiative and the pilot project contribute to achieve the joint goal of the PST members: By 2025, the share of sustainable cotton sourced by member companies is to increase to a total of 70%, and the share of organic cotton contained therein to 20%. PST Partnership initiative bio cotton in India Global cotton consumption is forecast at 122.0million bales, down 1.0million bales from the previous year. The highest cotton prices in 11 years and concerns regarding the global macro-economic environment are expected to cap consumption growth. Although consumption is projected to decline, this would still be the second highest level within the last 5 years. Higher costs of food, transportation, and housing will limit spending on cotton products (e.g., apparel, home textiles such as bed sheets and towels, etc.). Spending on home textiles and improvements witnessed significant gains following the implementation of widespread Covid-19 lockdowns, and these expenditures are expected too now slow. Consumers are expected to devote a greater share of disposable income to services relative to non-durable goods such as apparel this year and next year. Of the top 10 consuming countries, 4 (India, China, the USA, and Uzbekistan) are expected to decline; Turkey and Brazil are forecast unchanged from the previous year. Pakistan, Bangladesh and Vietnam are expected to witness consumption growth. Greater spinning capacity in South and Southeast Asia is expected to drive greater cotton lint demand in these regions. However, despite greater spinning capacity relative to pre-Covid levels, Indian consumption is expected to fall and partly due to the lowest projected domestic supplies in 4 years. Global trade is forecast up from the previous year to its second-highest level ever. China is projected to be the largest importer for the third consecutive year at 10.5 million bales due to strong demand to replenish state reserves and commercial stocks of foreign cotton in consignment. The outlook for 2021/22 shows global production is lowered 1.8 million bales from last month, largely due to a drop of 1.0 million bales from India. Global use is USDA Less global cotton consumption in 2022/23 down 1.1 million bales, and ending stocks are up 271,000 bales. Global trade is down slightly with a drop of 500,000 bales in Indian exports. Additionally, imports are lower for China, Pakistan, and Vietnam. Avient Acquisition of DSM Dyneema business The provider of specialized and sustainable material solutions, Avient, has entered into an agreement with Royal DSM NV, Heerlen/Netherlands, to purchase the DSM Protective Materials business (including the Dyneema brand) for US$ 1.485 billion. In conjunction with this proposed acquisition, Avient Corp., Avon Lake, OH/USA, has also announced that it plans to explore sale options for its Avient Distribution business. The foundation of the protective materials business of DSM is the renowned technology brand Dyneema. The ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) specialty fiber is 15 times stronger than steel and is used in demanding applications such as ballistic personal protection, marine and sustainable infrastructure, renewable energy, industrial protection and outdoor sports. Estimated sales and EBITDA for the Dyneema business in 2022 are approx. $ 415million and $ 130million, respectively. The business includes 6 production facilities, 4 R&D centers and approx. 1,000 employees worldwide. Avient's composites platformwith the Dyneema business will represent over 50% of the company's Specialty Engineered Materials segment sales.

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INDUSTRY NEWS A strong Q1/2022 result has been reported by IVL, building on its record financial year (FY) 2021 performance as the pandemic continued to retreat, driving demand across the company’s global integrated portfolio. In Q1/2022, Indorama Ventures Public Company Ltd., Bangkok/Thailand, achieved a core EBITDA of US$ 650 million, up 41% compared to the previous quarter and 77% year-on-year (YoY). Furthermore, there was a 4% increase in production volumes to 3.80 million tons. All 3 of IVL’s business segments grew as the company’s leading global position benefited overall in an environment of higher crude oil prices, increased ocean freight rates and a strengthening US dollar, led by resurging consumer demand and global mobility. As ocean freight rates increase, the company’s PET and Fibers segments gain due to increased import parity pricing in Western markets, where about two thirds of its portfolio is situated. The Fibers segment delivered core EBITDA of $ 85 million, an increase of 17% YoY. Demand across the 3 Fibers verticals is stable with domestic sales yielding better profitability, while higher freight rates weighed on margins on export volumes from Thailand, Indonesia and India, and increased costs impacted European operations. IVL Q1/2022 shows EBITDA increase of 41% The sum of US$ 85 million in funding has been raised by NFW to scale production of high-performance, all-natural, circular materials products coming to market with a wide array of global brand partners. Together with global partners, Natural Fiber Welding (NFW), Peoria, IL/USA, provides industries and innovators with new material platforms to design and create sustainable solutions. The investors include Evolution VC Partners, Tattarang, Lewis & Clark AgriFood, Collaborative Fund, AiiM Partners, Engine No.1, Raga Partners, Tidal Impact, Scrum Ventures, Gaingels, BMW i Ventures, Ralph Lauren, Advantage Capital, and Central Illinois Angels. The company has created entirely new sustainable and circular supply chain by strictly leveraging the abundance of plants. The new, plant-not-plasticbased materials, Mirum for footwear, fashion, automotive etc., and Clarus for apparel, bring the high-performance aspects usually associated with synthetics. Clarus is quickdrying, moisture-wicking and warp-knit compatible. Natural Fiber Welding discovered that natural fibers can be molded and shaped to take on the performance qualities of synthetics by using ionic liquids (i.e. liquid salts). Several families of ionic liquids are wellknown to dissolve cellulose, an abundant organic compound present in the cell walls of natural materials. Natural Fiber Welding $ 85 million to scale naturally circular materials